Friday, July 22, 2011

Easy, Light - The Ultimate Dessert for Hot Summer Days

Chocolate mousse filled Pavlova

When I first encountered Jayne Georgette’s dessert blog, Chocolates and Figs I knew I'll like it. It's the perfect blog for owners of a sweet tooth like me and my three kids. I had discovered that Jayne’s blog is a great source for new techniques and recipes, accompanied by interesting stories and informative facts. I was thrilled when Jayne offered to write a guest post for my blog and make a dessert that is gluten-free but elegant and easy to make.  Be sure to check out Chocolates and Figs for more beautiful Pavalova recipes. 


Elegant, lithe, graceful—a beautiful and famous ballerina dancing the Dying Swan, or perhaps the tragic bewitched White Swan Queen.  Now imagine a dessert that would embody the lightness of the dancer in the air. 
That was the challenge for pastry chefs when inspired by the greatness and celebrity of Anna Pavlova, (1881-1931) one of the most famous ballet dancers of all time.  She was the first ballet dancer to tour the world, including Australia and New Zealand in 1926, to adoring crowds.  In one of those countries, a chef created a dessert that would be worthy of her, drawing upon the lightness and elegance of the classic French confection, meringue. 
A pavlova is a cookie-like meringue dessert, usually made with vinegar and cornstarch and topped with light fruit and airy whipped cream.  Some also claim that the shape of the pavlova is supposed to resemble the tutu worn by Pavlova, with the whipped cream the netting of her skirt. Another story holds that the dessert was invented first, and someone commented, “It’s as light as Pavlova” bestowing her name on the creation.  In any case, the Pavlova quickly became a hit in both Australia and New Zealand, and later around the world. 
But which country has the honor of first invention?  Like many Americans, Australia and New Zealand tend to blend together in my mind and I vaguely think of them as being right next to each other.  But don’t tell that to an Australian or a New Zealander.  Although their countries are diplomatically and culturally close, there are 1400 miles setting them apart. Both countries are proud to claim ownership of Pavlova. Many investigations have been launched, but no definitive conclusions reached.  I think that’s for the best, let the glory of Pavlova be shared.    
I knew nothing of this history when I first encountered the Pavlova but I knew we were perfect together.  Meringue desserts were also a classic part of my Hungarian upbringing.  I loved nibbling meringue cookies as a child and I’ve never stopped.  In Hungary, they are often made with nuts, (i.e. hazelnuts or almonds) but no other filling or indentation for toppings.    
The Pavlova is a meringue cookie superstar, befitting its namesake.  It has the texture that reminds me of the meringue cookies, crispy on the outside soft, chewy and moist on the inside.  Who wouldn’t love to top that off with fresh fruits, whipped cream, chocolate mousse, vanilla ice cream, roasted/stewed fruits and more (although not all at the same time)? 
What’s more, Pavlovas are easy to prepare, they require a minimum of time in a heated kitchen, and are light to digest.  Simple and versatile, they are a splendid summer dessert.  Depending on the toppings you use, it can be a low-fat or fat-free dessert as well. 

I’ve been playing around with Pavlova variations, and have prepared four for presentation. Since it is too long to be placed in one post, we decided to divide the recipes so that two are reported here, and two on my blog, at http:///www.chocolatesandfigs.com. I love the White and Black Swan Queen Pavlova, topped with the Black Swan’s seductive chocolate mousse to smother the pure white meringue of the White Swan. The bright Lemon and Gingered Peach Palovas are also wonderful.   My favorite is a simple and classic presentation of Mixed Berries on Chantilly Cream.   While piping the meringue onto a baking sheet is traditional, I prefer using a muffin or cupcake pan for easy, attractive and structured Pavlova creations.
So, without further ado, here are the recipes:




PAVLOVA

All the meringues or PAVLOVA’s are the same:, except I added in some recipes chopped, roasted almonds

Ingredients:

4 egg whites, room temperature
1-tablespoon cornstarch
1/2-teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup caster (fine) sugar
1-teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon white vinegar
Pinch of salt

Method of Preparation
1.     Preheat oven to 375°F.
2.     Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites, salt and cream of tartar in a large bowl until soft peaks form.
3.     Add sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating constantly until it becomes thick and glossy.
4.     Add the cornstarch with the last 3 tablespoons of sugar.
5.     Fold in the vanilla and the vinegar and mix it for 10 seconds.
6.     Spoon the meringue either on jelly roll pan covered with buttered parchment paper, 1 inch apart; or as I did use a muffin pan and either butter the muffin pan or place a silicone muffin cup into each unit.  The meringue should be higher then the muffin cup and make indentations in the middle of each unit with the back of a spoon; this is where the filling will be placed.
7.      Reduce the oven temperature to 250°F.
8.     Bake for 35-45 minutes, depending on the size of the muffins. It has to appear dry and crisp outside. Try not to open the oven door at least for the first 15 minutes of baking.
9.     Turn off the oven and open the oven door. Cool completely in the oven (the meringue (pavlova) may sink during cooling, but it is fine).
10.                       Serve with various fillings. See suggestions below

Empty meringue shells
Chocolate Mousse
  • 3 large eggs, separated
  • 6 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, at room temperature
  • 6 tablespoons water
  • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder
  • 1 tablespoon dark rum
  • 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
  • Optional: 3/4 cup chilled whipping cream
Method of Preparation
1.     Whisk egg yolks with 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons water, and rum in a metal bowl to blend.
2.     Set bowl over saucepan of simmering water (do not allow bottom of bowl to touch the water). Whisk until the candy hermometer inserted into the mixture registers 160°F; you may need about 6 minutes.
3.     Add the chocolate pieces and whisk until melted and smooth.
4.     Mix the cocoa powder with 3 tablespoons hot water (make sure there are no lumps and add it to the chocolate/egg mixture.
5.     Turn off heat; leave bowl over water.
6.     Using an electric mixer beat the egg whites in a large bowl until soft peaks form.
7.     Gradually add 3 tablespoons sugar and beat until stiff peaks form
8.     Fold 1/3 of egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten.
9.     Fold in the remaining whites.
10.               Remove from over water and let the mousse cool 20 minutes.
11.               Beat whipping cream in a large bowl until soft peaks form.
12.                Incorporate the whipped cream into the chocolate mousse or alternatively, use it as a decoration placed on top of the chocolate mousse.

Assembly
This type of “cake” or “cookie” can be assembled in a variety of ways. Here, I scooped  three small scoops of chocolate mousse and placed it into the indentation (see the photo without fillings), then used raspberries for color, and the mousse is sprinkled with roasted, ground almond and the entire service plate is sprinkled with tempered, melted dark chocolate.

Note: You can add sweetened whip cream (Chantilly cream), on top of the mousse; you can use other nuts,  you can have just whipped cream with chocolate shavings as decoration and so on…


Gingered Peaches

Peaches
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled, thinly sliced
  • 3 firm but ripe large peaches, peeled, pitted, quartered
Method of preparation
1.     Combine 2 cups water, 1-cup sugar, fresh lemon juice, and sliced ginger in large saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves.
2.     Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes.
3.     Add the peeled peach quarters to the syrup and remove from heat.
4.     Allow the peaches to cool to room temperature in the syrup, at least for 30 minutes, turning occasionally. The longer you let the peaches to absorb the gingered syrup, the better  they will taste.
5.     Transfer the peaches with the syrup to a container that can be closed; and chill it in the refrigerator until cold. Peaches can be made 1 day ahead. Keep refrigerated.
Asssembly
As you can see on the photographs, there is no real assembly required. Just place a few gingered quartered peaches into the indentation of the Pavlova and I placed a single raspberry in the middle for color.



















Thursday, July 21, 2011

Guest post at Food Wanderings


When I first begun to write my blog, I thought that writing is a lonely vocation, that still may be true but blogging turned out to be a great way to socialize and meet many new people. Among the many food bloggers I've encountered through the web the past months, Shullie Madnick from Food Wanderings turned out to be one of my preferred ones. I like her use of fresh ingredients, uncomplicated yet tasty recipes and above all lovely writing and photography. I was really delighted when Shullie asked me to write a guest post for a series of articles about Israel. So please check out Food Wandering blog, and come with to my weekly shopping at Ramle market.



Sunday, July 17, 2011

Refreshing summer flavors

Disclosure: The writer was a guest of the Sofia restaurant at the Inbal Hotel, Jerusalem.

It was a regular Israeli hot and humid summer day. We were early. My best friend (famous food blogger Foodbridge) and I had arrived to the Inbal hotel almost an hour too soon. We looked at the swimming pool longingly and wished we had brought bathing suits. We also felt very sorry for the hotel staff, all dressed formally in suits while we wore our best T-shirt and capris for the day.  We were invited to a blogger event and formal introduction of the new menu of the Sofia restaurant. Because of our early arrival we had a chance to wonder around the hotel prior to the bloggers' event. It turned out to be a gem of a hotel: combining the beautiful view of the old city with all the modern comforts and pampering. 
Chef Moti Buchbut

Then it was time, we were called back to the restaurant and the tastings began. There weren't many of us bloggers at the lavishly arranged table. In addition to Foodbridge and me, there was  Ariella Fixler-Alon from the Hebrew food blog "Cooking to the rhythm of Salsa", Shira Zwebner from Hipstermom blog, two managers from the hotel and a PR agent. Now our T-shirts seemed very inappropriate.
On the spot made brioche bread

We began the meal with brioche bread that was freshly baked and tapenade spread.  The restaurants' chef, Moti Buchbut came and explained every dish as it reached our table. The Red Tuna Carpaccio was served, and we were extremely impressed and not for the last time. The fish was marinated in olive oil and balsamic vinegar, seasoned only in sea salt. It was a perfect starter, fresh, delicate and very tasty.
Tuna carpaccio 

Next we were served onion soup based on red wine that had a rich taste followed by a very unusual green salad. The salad was extremely fresh, the lettuce crisp and juicy but the unique ingredient was the sauce: a combination of olive oil, and Passion fruit puree that contributed a tangy yet rich flavor to what is generally considered a mundane dish.  We had also sampled pasta with tomato sauce (Pasta A La Pomodoro) that was tasty but not thrilling.
Onion soup


Green salad


Spaghetti pomodoro
The "piece de resistance" was next. This is a dish that in my opinion is worth hiring a baby sitter, getting dressed and driving to this restaurant.  The Asian Sea Bass (Barramundi) served on a bed of mushroom risotto and topped with scales made from potatoes. It was ingenious combination of flavors, textures and the beauty of an impressionist painting. 

Barramundi fish on a bed of  mushroom risotto


 In addition we tasted two more fish courses: one of sea bream and the other of trout- both were exceptional in flavor and presentation.
Marinated trout fillet with potato and mushrooms


Sea brim on toasted brioche with yellow bell peppers sauce


















We were so stuffed that we couldn't believe we will handle the dessert. But the deep fried chocolate filled ravioli was irresistible.  We licked our fingers literally. 
Not a space ship, chocolate filled raviolli

The whole experience was unforgettable. I personally loved the Chef's tendency towards fresh, lemony, tangy tastes and the combination of extremely fresh ingredients in a beautiful presentation. There is a tendency ( I had it too) to look at Kosher and especially Dairy Kosher restaurants as unsophisticated, a no match to regular chef restaurants. Chef Moti Buchbut and his staff at the Sofia restaurant prove that one can cook Kosher Haute Cuisine, you just need the enthusiasm and creativity.

Sofia restaurant – Kosher (not open on Saturday) at the Inbal Hotel , Liberty Bell Park, 3 Jabotinsky Street, Jerusalem,  Israel.
Views of the Old City from Inbal Hotel

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Lunch time




I've been a stay at home mom for a few months now, a very new and educational experience for me. Although I've spent long maternity leaves with each of my children, there was never a doubt that I'll go back to work. For years my kids spent the lunch hours at various child care facilities and babysitters, while I would usually eat my lunch in front of the computer at the lab, trying not to let my sandwich drip on the keyboard. I welcomed the change in my employment status because I finally had an opportunity to spend more time with the kids and pay them a lot more attention. At first they were ecstatic about the fact they will go home after school and not to any of the child care places but then when they realized that the supervision on TV time, homework and piano practice got a lot tighter the enthusiasm waned.  One of the most important issues is of course their diet, and as one of my daughters has celiac and the other is lactose intolerant we have to be creative and very meticulous about what we feed them. Now that I'm home I find it challenging trying to prepare them tasty and healthy food every lunch. The following pasta dish is a great success. It's an adaptation from a recipe by Beth Elon (an Israeli cookbook writer). The best thing about this recipe is that it's very easy to make. Only a few months ago I took pride in the fact that the only thing I cook is hardboiled egg and now the fact that I cook this dish on regular basis to my household liking, is pretty miraculous in my view.   
No pasta sauce can be complete without onion (Yahud Ashkenazi market)


Ingredients:
1 package of gluten-free pasta (we use the whole rice one)
1/4 cup olive oil
3 medium size onions chopped
2 grinded carrots
2-4 chopped garlic cloves
800gr of pureed tomatoes (either fresh or canned)
2 table spoons of tomato paste
Salt, pepper, a few chopped basil leaves
Preparation
Place the oil in a medium size cooking pot and add the onion, garlic and carrots. Sauté the vegetable till the onion softens.
Add the tomatoes and paste and boil the sauce on high flame for 15 minutes than lower the flames to the lowest fire and let it simmer for an hour.
Add a pinch a sugar and the basil.
Take the sauce off the fire and mash it using a hand blender, turn the fire on again and let it simmer for 10 more minutes while adding the salt and pepper.
Cook the pasta as instructed on package and serve.
Bon appetite!

Monday, June 13, 2011

On the road to nowhere

2 minutes before sinking in the sand
The car made a bizarre "woosh" sound and stopped. We were stuck. All the attempts to step on the gas pedal resulted in sinking deeper in the sand, and raising clouds of dust. The temperature outside was hitting 40 centigrade. After frantic digging in the scorching sand, we had to admit: we're going nowhere. Were we to 
spend the rest of Shavuot Holiday stranded a few meters from the Jordanian border?

It all began when we decided that we don't want to spend Shavuot holiday at home when our eldest daughter is away in Paris with her grandma. We wanted the younger kids not to be too jealous and have fun while their sister will ride rollercoasters in Euro Disney. Though Israeli summer is already here and the heat is on we decided we'll head south to the desert. I've already confessed here my affection and deep connection to the wilderness so it seemed natural to me, instead of Paris, The Arava region.
Lovely view of the desert and ibexes

We booked a guest room in Moshav Hatzeva. Hatzeva is an agricultural community not far from the Jordanian border. The settlers in the area found earning a living solely out of crop growing difficult so they turned to tourism and many have guest rooms for hire. The place we booked was lovely, a cute rustic styled room with comfortable beds and a kitchenette. There was a big yard that was arranged like a Bedouin tent with colorful rugs and cushions, a bit tacky but picturesque. We all found ourselves relaxing, slowing down to the pace of the desert. It was too hot to do anything.
Guest rooms complex "Shvilim Bamidbar" in Hatzeva

Once the air started to cool we went to some hiking in the area. We walked a short walk to Ein-Yorkeam, a wadi where naturally occurring water cisterns create a pretty oasis. The cisterns were still full of water though it's already the height of summer.
Tristram's grackle 
 From there we continued to fill bottles with colored sand and ended the day at the view point watching The Small Crater (Maktesh Katan). Going back to the room we stopped in the middle of road (it was very empty) and watched a herd of ibexes climbing the cliffs above the motorway.My kids reminded me of the notion that my name assign me a mystical connection to these animals (ibex in Hebrew is Yael) because whenever I travel to the desert I'll always see an ibex. We ended the day with a great meal cooked by my Dear Husband and went to sleep like farmers at nine pm.
Lessons in composition on The Peace Road

We woke leisurely the next day and since the heat outside kept rising our solution was the Moshav's swimming pool. The water slide provided a most satisfying substitute to Disneyland's rides.  After lunch we headed back home but we decided not to drive on the main road but rather take a scenic route called the Peace Road.  The Peace Road is actually a service road the farmers of the area use which passes through the hothouses and fields. Since the peace treaty with Jordan it was renovated by the JNF and was added with viewpoints and scenic hiking routes. Like in the famous poem we took the road less traveled by and drove north on the Peace Road. There was really nice desert scenery, and in one of the turns we decided to get off the paved route and drive what seemed to be a fine dirt road. At first all was great, the views were exciting, I shot some pretty pictures, the kids were asleep at the back, and suddenly "whoosh" and we stopped. 
After 15 minutes of futile attempts to rescue us, my Dear Husband spotted a tractor in the distance driving towards the fields. He run and yelled to them like a madman, but it worked. The blue tractor driven by a Thai worker and a Landcruiser driven by his boss pulled us out to safe ground. All this time the kids sat in the air-coned car munching crisps, amused by all the occurrences.  They had something interesting to tell in class.
The voyage home was very conventional, no more adventures off the beaten track with a company car.
Views of the Dead Sea


Sunday, June 5, 2011

Landwer's coffee, the way it was meant to be

Coffee fruit


For the first time in my blog welcome my best friend and co-blogger: Sarah Melamed in a guest post about coffee. Sarah is usually the herbal tea type while I am the devoted espresso drinker but now and then she enjoys a good cappuccino. Here are her impressions about one of Israel's leading coffee factories.


After a visit to Landwer's coffee factory in Holon my hair and clothes were  infused with the aroma of deep, rich espresso. When I stepped out I was surprised people didn't speak to me in Italian, mistaking me for a barista "Un caffè, per favore!"
Indeed, the only place you'll find a comparative espresso is in a café in Rome, where coffee is not just a drink but a ritual of life.  In recent years Israel has emulated Italy's coffee culture with many new cafes opening around the country as well as numerous products, from coffee makers to a variety of grinds, for those who prefer to drink at home.  The Israeli consumer has become increasingly selective, appreciating the stronger brews which were once considered unpalatable.
Roasting coffee beans

At the forefront of the Israeli coffee scene is Landwer, established in 1919, providing quality coffee both for the home brewer and in coffee houses throughout the country.
The Landwer facility supervises the coffee making process from the selection of the beans, roasting, grinding and finally vacuum packaging. Each of the steps is done in a highly controlled environment essential to develop and retain the complexities and flavor locked in the coffee bean. Stringent quality control follows the entire process to ensure the integrity of the product.
Quality control and experimental lab at the Landwer Factory, would love to work here!

The best part of the visit was making my own cappuccino using their industrial coffee machine. A barista I am not but now I fully appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making a beautiful cup of coffee. Even if you start out with the highest quality ingredients and state of the art equipment, it is completely possible to make a mess of things. The number one enemy is air which oxidizes the coffee, zapping its flavor and blunting its taste. This means that the speed is essential to outwit those pesky oxygen molecules to ensure a full bodied espresso with crema, a layer of foam that is the hallmark of well prepared coffee.
The baristas make a cup of espresso

And even if the espresso is "perfect" from bean to cup, there are those who will dislike it for being overwhelmingly strong. Recognizing this Landwer offers several products that cater to different tastes. For black coffee aficionados there are three flavors to choose from, the mellower morning flavor, original and the stronger espresso style black coffee. For professionals and also what is served at Landwer coffee houses throughout the country there are two varieties available, Espresso Classic and Espresso Ristretto. In the coming months Espresso Supremo will also be available with its new retro packaging.
from left to right: Morning, Orignal and Espresso flavored black coffee

A few weeks ago I visited a Landwer café in Rehovot with my friend Yael for leisurely breakfast and cappuccino. Although there are numerous coffee bar chains in Israel, Landwer is the only company that believes in individuality and this extends to its coffee houses as well. Every establishment has its own décor and atmosphere and not an industrial clone of the other. What you can experience in all of them, however, is some truly excellent coffee.
Landwer Cafe in Rehovot, outdoor seating
Coffee Trivia:
·        Coffee is the second largest commodity in the world. What's the first?
·        Coffee is indigenous to Ethiopia
·        The term "Turkish coffee" in Hebrew originally referred to the grain size not its origin. Which makes sense since tea is very popular in Turkey.
·        Landwer coffee moved to Israel in 1933 from Germany and opened its first shop on Allenby road in Tel Aviv.
·        The coffee fruit ripens from green to bright red and its seed (bean) is a shade of olive green before roasting.
·        There are two major varieties of coffee, Arabica and Robusta which are often combined to make a blend.
·        The espresso machine was invented by Angelo Moriondo of Turin, Italy in 1884